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Touring the Boyne Valley: 

Monasterboice, The Ancient Monastery of Bhuithe

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There are a variety of great companies that host day tours from Dublin, of the rolling green hills and fields of the Boyne Valley in Ireland.  We chose to hire a private driver/guide for the day from Tour Dublin, and our guide Kieran, whisked us off to explore some of the amazing history of Ireland.  Our tour of the valley would include, Monasterboice, Hill of Slane, Newgrange, and Trim Castle.

Our first stop was Monasterboice which can be found in County Louth, north of Drogheda.  This site which looks somewhat like a small graveyard at first glance, was one of the early important monastic communities of religion and learning in Ireland.  It was founded in the 5th century by a follower of St. Patrick; the hermit St. Buithe.  The word Monasterboice is an Anglicization of Mainistir Bhuithe, meaning "monastery of Buithe”

When we drove up to the site, we saw that there was only one other car in the parking lot and that we would have this wonderful place almost to ourselves.   Traveling off season really allows you to appreciate the history and beauty of Ireland without dodging the crowds of summer.


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The small monastery suffered a Viking invasion in 968, but the marauders were driven out by the High King of Ireland at that time, Donal.  Shortly after that, the round tower which is 110 feet high (33 m) was built.  Its windows are slits and originally, the door would have been 15 – 20 feet above ground. After centuries of burials, the ground is higher, so the door is currently only 6 feet (2 m) off the ground.  It tapers as it rises to what would have been a conical top, but the top part is no longer there.

Most historians believe that the monks would have taken refuge in these towers which were divided by wooden floors, during assaults upon their communities, drawing the ladders up after them and defending the tower through the slit windows. 

In 1097 the monastery and its tower was burned and shortly after that it began to decline as nearby, the newly built Mellifont Abbey began to grow and thrive.

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The ruins of two churches from the 14th century are on the site and ancient gravestones from the monastic times surround the tower, but what catches the eye are the huge Celtic High Crosses from the 10th century.

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Best preserved and certainly the most beautiful, is the 18 foot (5.5 m) tall Cross of Murdock which is named after the Abbot Muiredach mac Domhnaill from 923 A.D.  It features biblical carving from the Old and New testaments of the Bible.

As you face the cross, the center panel shows the Last Judgment.  Those going to heaven are on the right and those going to hell are on the left.  Working down the center pillar of the cross, you will see the scenes from the Old Testament, the Magi, Moses striking the rock, the life of David and Adam and Eve. 

We wandered for quite some time thinking about those ancient days of High Kings and Monks in Ireland and soaking up the beauty of the carved stones.  In our minds, we could hear the echoes of the monks chants.

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